Thursday, August 08, 2013

Oliver and S Roller Skate Dress with Contrast Eyelet Lower Band


A little guided tour?

Well, for starters, I adore the curve of the little cap sleeves and the V-cut-out neckline: 

Three pearl buttons with loop closures (opposed to one as per pattern). Inspired by Charise's version here. In fact, much of this dress was inspired by hers - the yellow fabric, the contrast waistband.  

I lined the dress with a very light-weight muslin, but wanted this yellow to show through the eyelet, so I added it as a contrast piece to the muslin lining, using the tunic cutting-line as a guide, sewn with the right side of the fabric facing outwards.

For the eyelet band, I wanted to be able to use the selvage edge as the hem - which in the case of eyelet - is a lovely scallop. However, the dress has a curved hem (A-line). This would pose problems with matching up the eyelet scallops properly and affect the hang/hem in general, especially at the side seams. So I straightened the hemline first by chopping 6" off the bottom, straight across, of both the front and back pattern pieces. While I was doing this, I consulted the Oliver + S Forums to bounce ideas and had replies and advise within a few minutes! Thanks you guys!!

Here's a photo tutorial of how I attached the band. I cut the band 6" wide; and about 4" longer than needed to go around the hem. I finished the raw edges of the eyelet and the dress with the serger first - since eyelet is bulky it was easier to do this now rather than after the seam was sewn. Then, pin eyelet, RST, to bottom of dress. Start and finish sewing about 2" from the centre-back seam. Like this:

Keep your dress free and sew the centre-back of the eyelet, like this:

Finish the raw edges and press the seam open:

Then head back to your machine and finish attaching the eyelet, matching up your seams.

I pressed everything up toward the dress, to avoid seeing the eyelet seam-allowance. Whew, that part's done!

For a contrast waistband, I cut 1 1/2" bias strips and folded the raw edges under 1/4". Actually, I did this with a bias-tape maker and it worked really well. Fast. I wanted to make sure to piece my bias strips at the side seams - that meant two bias strips. I applied it much the same way as the eyelet band to  make sure the side seams lined up perfectly.  I carefully pinned the top edge and sewed it first. Then I sewed along the lower edge, leaving an opening to insert the elastic. I inserted the elastic in between the lining and the outer fabric, then top-stitched the opening closed.

And, I'm outa here, she says.

She loves her dress. Sigh, and so do I. I think this is one of my very favorite Oliver+S patterns to date. This was also the pattern used in SewMamaSew's Super Online Sewing Match for Round 2, so make sure to check out all the pretty rockin-Roller Skate inspiration.

And finally, to wrap things up, I'm happy to report I finished reading Pride and Prejudice and let me tell you, it has a JUICY ending. Ah, love. I mean, you see it all coming of course, but its just wonderful to savour each and every word of the page. Now I need to get my hands on the movie. And start another Jane Austen. Which one? I've already read Emma, Persuasion, and Mansfield Park. Suggestions for the next?

I'll link up with Elizabeth if she posts a needle and thREAD today. Till then, dear sewing partners-in-crime, may God bless all your stitchin'.



  1. I wish I had the confidence to sew clothes like you do! If I have a little girl one day I will have to learn! Beautiful job. Sorry no suggestions for another Jane Austen book.

    1. Thanks Lucy, and I wish I had your talent for writing poetry!!

  2. This is beautiful! Have you read Sense and Sensibility? I thought it was pretty great. Greetings from Germany, Laney

  3. Thanks Laney! Hey, I love Germany, I have family there and worked there as a pharmacy exchange student MANY years ago! Thanks for stopping by!

    1. Oh and yes, I'll try Sense and Sensibility. Good call.

  4. Replies
    1. Thank you Nicole, and thanks for your help too!

  5. Oh baby do I have the P&P movies...I think the A&E 6 hour mini series is the best at capturing the book. When you get home let's make marathon of it! Is this the first time you've read this book or was it a repeat? My all time favourite J.A. is Sense & Sensibility. The movie to Star Wars my favourite non sic-fi film. ;-)


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